Air Sampling for Mold Inspections

Since we are now certified to do mold testing, here is a quick article on the benefits and issues with doing air samples for mold testing.  Veteran Home Inspections can provide you with air sampling, tape lift sampling, and a complete mold inspection, which helps identify the causes of indoor mold. 

Taking air samples during a mold inspection is important for several reasons.  Mold spores are not visible to the naked eye, and the types of mold present can often be determined through laboratory analysis of the air samples.  Having samples analyzed can also help provide evidence of the scope and severity of a mold problem, as well as aid in assessing human exposure to mold spores.  After remediation, new samples are typically taken to help ensure that all mold has been successfully removed.

 

Air samples can be used to gather data about mold spores present in the interior of a house.  These samples are taken by using a pump that forces air through a collection device which catches mold spores.  The sample is then sent off to a laboratory to be analyzed.  InterNACHI inspectors who perform mold inspections often utilize air sampling to collect data, which has become commonplace.

Air-Sampling Devices

There are several types of devices used to collect air samples that can be analyzed for mold.  Some common examples include:

• impaction samplers that use a calibrated air pump to impact spores onto a prepared microscope slide;
• cassette samplers, which may be of the disposable or one-time-use type, and also employ forced air to impact spores onto a collection media; and
• airborne-particle collectors that trap spores directly on a culture dish.  These may be utilized to identify the species of mold that has been found.

When and When Not to Sample

Samples are generally best taken if visual, non-invasive examination reveals apparent mold growth or conditions that could lead to growth, such as moisture intrusion or water damage.  Musty odors can also be a sign of mold growth.  If no sign of mold or potential for mold is apparent, one or two indoor air samples can still be taken, at the discretion of the inspector and client, in the most lived-in room of the house and at the HVAC unit.  

Outdoor air samples are also typically taken as a control for comparison to indoor samples.  Two samples -- one from the windward side and one from the leeward side of the house -- will help provide a more complete picture of what is in the air that may be entering the house through windows and doors at times when they are open.  It is best to take the outdoor samples as close together in time as possible to the indoor samples that they will be compared with.

InterNACHI inspectors should avoid taking samples if a resident of the house is under a physician’s care for mold exposure, if there is litigation in progress related to mold on the premises, or if the inspector’s health or safety could be compromised in obtaining the sample.  Residential home inspectors also should not take samples in a commercial or public building.

Where to Sample and Ideal Conditions

In any areas of a house suspected or confirmed to have mold growth, air samples can be taken to help verify and gather more information.  Moisture intrusion, water damage, musty odors, apparent mold growth, or conditions conducive to mold growth are all common reasons to gather an air sample.  Samples should be taken near the center of the room, with the collection device positioned 3 to 6 feet off the ground.

Ten minutes is an adequate amount of time for the air pump to run while taking samples, but this can be reduced to around five minutes if there is a concern that air movement from a lot of indoor activity could alter the results.  The sampling time can be reduced further if there is an active source of dust, such as from ongoing construction.

Sampling should take place in livable spaces within the house under closed conditions in order to help stabilize the air and allow for reproducibility of the sampling and measurement.  While the sample is being collected, windows and exterior doors should be kept shut other than for normal entry and exit from the home.  It is best to have air exchangers (other than a furnace) or fans that exchange indoor-outdoor air switched off during sampling.

Weather conditions can be an important factor in gathering accurate data. Severe thunderstorms or unusually high winds can affect the sampling and analysis results.  High winds or rapid changes in barometric pressure increase the difference in air pressure between the interior and exterior, which can increase the variability of airborne mold-spore concentration.  Large differences in air pressure between the interior and exterior can cause more airborne spores to be sucked inside, skewing the results of the sample. 

Difficulties and Practicality of Air Sampling

It is helpful to think of air sampling as just one tool in the tool belt when inspecting a house for mold problems.  An air sample alone is not enough to confirm or refute the existence of a problem, and such testing needs to be accompanied by visual inspection and other methods of data collection, such as a surface sample.  Indoor airborne spore levels can vary according to several factors, and this can lead to skewed results if care is not taken to set up the sampling correctly.  Also, since only spores are collected with an air sample and may actually be damaged during collection, identification of the mold type can be more difficult than with a sample collected with tape or a cultured sample.

Air samples are good for use as a background screen to ensure that there isn’t a large source of mold not yet found somewhere in a home.  This is because they can detect long chains of spores that are still intact.  These chains normally break apart quickly as they travel through the air, so a sample that reveals intact chains can indicate that there is mold nearby, possibly undiscovered during other tests and visual examination. 

In summary, when taken under controlled conditions and properly analyzed, air samples for mold are helpful in comparing relative particle levels between a problem and a control area.  They can also be crucial for comparing particle levels and air quality in an area before and after mold remediation.  

To schedule your complete mold inspection and testing appointment, call 210-202-1974 or visit www.vhillc.com.

by Nick Gromicko and Ethan Ward

used with permission from: https://www.nachi.org/air-sampling-mold-inspection.htm

Moisture Intrusion: We Inspect For That

Moisture intrusion can be the cause of building defects, as well as health ailments for the building's occupants. Inspectors should have at least a basic understanding of how moisture may enter a building, and where problem areas commonly occur.

Some common moisture-related problems include:

• structural wood decay; 
• high indoor humidity and resulting condensation;
• expansive soil, which may crack the foundation through changes in volume, or softened soil, which may lose its ability to support an overlying structure;
• undermined foundations;
• metal corrosion;
• ice dams; and
• mold growth.  Mold can only grow in the presence of high levels of moisture. People who suffer from the following conditions can be seriously (even fatally) harmed if exposed to elevated levels of airborne mold spores:
  • asthma;
  • allergies;
  • lung disease; and/or
  • compromised immune systems.

Note:  People who do not suffer from these ailments may still be harmed by elevated levels of airborne mold spores.

How does moisture get into the house?

Moisture or water vapor moves into a house in the following ways:

• air infiltration. Air movement accounts for more than 98% of all water vapor movement in building cavities. Air naturally moves from high-pressure areas to lower ones by the easiest path possible, such as a hole or crack in the building envelope. Moisture transfer by air currents is very fast (in the range of several hundred cubic feet of air per minute). Replacement air will infiltrate through the building envelope unless unintended air paths are carefully and permanently sealed;
• by diffusion through building material. Most building materials slow moisture diffusion, to a large degree, although they never stop it completely;
• leaks from roof;
• plumbing leaks; 
• flooding, which can be caused by seepage from runoff or rising groundwater; it may be seasonal or catastrophic; and
• human activities, including bathing, cooking, dishwashing and washing clothes. Indoor plants, too, may be a significant source of high levels of humidity.

Climate Zones

In the northern U.S., moisture vapor problems are driven primarily by high indoor relative humidity levels, combined with low outdoor temperatures during the winter. In the southern U.S. (especially the southeast), the problem is largely driven by high outdoor humidity and low indoor temperatures during summer months. Mixed climates are exposed to both conditions and can experience both types of problems. Humid climates, in general, will be more of a problem than dry climates. Wind-driven rain is the main cause of leaks through the building envelope.

Inspectors can check for moisture intrusion in the following areas:

Roofs

A roof leak may lead to the growth of visible mold colonies in the attic that can grow unnoticed. Roof penetrations increase the likelihood of water leaks due to failed gaskets, sealants and flashing. The number of roof penetrations may be reduced by a variety of technologies and strategies, including: 

• consolidation of vent stacks below the roof;
• exhaust fan caps routed through walls instead of the roof;
• high-efficiency combustion appliances, which can be sidewall-vented;
• electrically powered HVAC equipment and hot water heaters that do not require flue; and
• adequate flashing. Oftentimes, inspectors discover missing, incorrectly installed or corroded flashing pipes.

Plumbing

• Distribution pipes and plumbing fixtures can be the source of large amounts of moisture intrusion. If the wall is moist and/or discolored, then moisture damage is already in progress. Most plumbing is hidden in the walls, so serious problems can begin unnoticed.
• One of the most important means of moisture management in the bathroom is the exhaust fan. A non-functioning exhaust fan overloads the bathroom with damp air. If the exhaust fan doesn’t turn on automatically when the bathroom is in use, consider recommending switching the wiring or switch. The lack of an exhaust fan should be called out in the inspection report. The fan should vent into the exterior, not into the attic.
• The bathroom sink, in particular, is a common source of moisture intrusion and damage. Although overflow drains can prevent the spillage of water onto the floor, they can become corroded and allow water to enter the cabinet.  
• Use a moisture meter to check for elevated moisture levels in the sub-floor around the toilet and tub.
• Bathroom windows need to perform properly in a wide range of humidity and temperature conditions. Check to see if there are any obvious breaks in the weatherstripping and seals. Are there are stains or flaking on the painted surfaces?
• Check showers and bathtubs. Is the caulking is cracked, stiff or loose in spots? Are there cracked tiles or missing grout that may channel water to vulnerable areas? If some water remains in the bathtub after draining, it may be a warning sign of possible structural weakening and settlement in the floor beneath the tub.

Utility Room

• The water heater tank should be clean and rust-free.
• The area around the water softener tank should be clean and dry.
• Check that all through-the-wall penetrations for fuel lines, ducts, and electrical systems of heating system are well-sealed. All ducts should be clean and dust-free. Inspect the air supply registers in the house for dust accumulation.   
• Filters, supply lines, exterior wall penetrations, vents, ductwork and drainage of the cooling system must all be in good working order to avoid moisture problems.  

Attic

• Look for stains or discolorations at all roof penetrations. Chimneys, plumbing vents and skylight wells are common places where moisture may pass through the roof. Any such locations must be inspected for wetness, a musty smell and/or visible signs of mold.
• Are there areas of the insulation that appear unusually thin?
• Rust or corrosion around recessed lights are signs of a potential electrical hazard.

Foundations

Model building codes typically require damp-proofing of foundation walls. The damp-proofing shall be applied from the top of the footing to the finished grade. Parging of foundation walls should be damp-proofed in one of the following ways:

• bituminous coating;
• 3 pounds per square yard of acrylic modified cement;
• 1/8-inch coat of surface-bonding cement; or
• any material permitted for water-proofing.

In summary, moisture can enter a building in a number of different ways. High levels of moisture can cause building defects and health ailments. 

To schedule your home inspection including a detailed check for moisture intrusion, visit www.vhillc.com

by Nick Gromicko and Kenton Shepard

 https://www.nachi.org/moisture-intrusion.htm

What Really Matters in a Home Inspection

Buying a home?

The process can be stressful. A home inspection is supposed to give you peace of mind but, depending on the findings, it may have the opposite effect. You will be asked to absorb a lot of information over a short period of time.  Your inspection will entail a written report, including checklists and photos, and what the inspector tells you during the inspection. All of this combined with the seller's disclosure and what you notice yourself can make the experience overwhelming. What should you do?

Relax.

Home inspectors are professionals, and since I am a member of InterNACHI, then you can trust that I am among the most highly trained in the industry. Most of your inspection will be related to maintenance recommendations and minor imperfections. These are good to know about.

However, the issues that really matter will fall into four categories:

1. major defects, such as a structural failure;
2. conditions that can lead to major defects, such as a roof leak;
3. issues that may hinder your ability to finance, legally occupy, or insure the home if not rectified immediately; and
4. safety hazards, such as an exposed, live buss bar at the electrical panel.

Anything in these categories should be addressed as soon as possible. Often, a serious problem can be corrected inexpensively to protect both life and property (especially in categories 2 and 4).

Most sellers are honest and are often surprised to learn of defects uncovered during an inspection. It’s important to realize that a seller is under no obligation to repair everything mentioned in your inspection report. No house is perfect. Keep things in perspective.

And remember that homeownership is both a joyful experience and an important responsibility, so be sure to call on your InterNACHI Certified Master Inspector® to help you devise an annual maintenance plan that will keep your safe and your home in top condition for years to come. 

For more about the services offered by Veteran Home Inspections, PLLC, please visit www.vhillc.com

Adapted from https://www.nachi.org/matters.htm by Nick Gromicko

Disaster house

Today's post is a bit different from my past posts, as all of the issues are from one house.  I inspected this house for an investor client and couldn't believe the number of issues I found.

The trim around the house was deteriorated in several locations.  This one had sagged so much that a family of birds had moved in!

The sill plate under the deck ledger had deteriorated so much that I was able to push a car key in with no effort at all.  This will be a major repair, as the entire exterior wall sits on this piece of wood.

 The siding on this, and several other houses in the area, was falling off.  This makes me wonder if an incompetent contractor went through after a storm and got a bunch of people to let them make repairs.

 This is the ceiling in the garage where the exterior trim was damaged.

Here is the master bedroom closet right above that mold stain in the closet.

Hopefully most people realize that trees should be kept away from the roof to prevent damage, but this tree had already made its mark on the roof.

This is what I found in the bedroom closet right under where the tree had damaged the roof.  

Even though this water damage was fairly evident, here's what it looked like on the thermal imaging camera.

It took me a minute to figure out what they had done here.  This is actually the sump pump discharge.  No, it shouldn't be dumping into the house's drain system, and that's just where the problems began.

This breaker was for the heat pump, and was overheating quite a bit.

Thankfully it stood out quite clearly on the thermal imaging camera.

This was the ductwork, and it's one of the worst I've seen.  I have a feeling this will require a complete replacement of the ductwork.  I couldn't get a picture of the inside, but I wouldn't want to breath the air coming out of it.

A neighbor told me that the basement had flooded at least once.  The fuzzy walls in the basement confirmed it.

 What's missing on this bathroom sink...hint for the Star Wars fans out there...It's a Trap!

 This addition was just screaming for attention.  I would guarantee there was no permit pulled for this one.  It was built on the old patio slab and supported with 4x4s.  Inside the drywall was cracked in many places, and I would have to say there was some structural movement going on.

This is the underside of the addition, and aside from the insulation being installed upside-down, you can see the deteriorating support posts.  This is one addition that will probably not be able to be retroactively permitted.  My advice to my client was to plan on it coming down.

Just for a little humor, this was posted on the electric furnace.

I always harp on making sure that your home inspector goes into the attic.  This is one of the few I didn't go into, since the critter this bait was set up for didn't take the bait and was still hanging out.  

That's all for now folks.  Stay safe out there, and remember to hire the best home inspector you can find.  For more on our services, check out www.vhillc.com

10 things you can check to make the home inspection easier

As a home inspector, I frequently see the same issues on houses new and old.  While some are issues that are best left to the experts to repair (electrical...), some are simple maintenance issues that a homeowner can take care of themselves for minimal cost.   Here are several issues that can be easily repaired, so that I don't have to put them as issues when I inspect your home:

1. Loose Toilets: Your toilets should be a solid throne, not a rocking/swivel chair.  When the toilet loosens from the toilet flange, the movement causes damage to the wax ring that forms the seal between the toilet and the flange (the drain pipe).  This can quickly lead to sewage leaks.  If your toilet rocks when you sit on it, or if you can swivel it easily, it's time to pull it up, replace the wax seal, and reset the toilet.  As a DIY project, all you need is the wax ring, which should cost you under $10.

This thermal image shows water leaking from a toilet on the second floor.  The drywall in this area had just been replaced, and I would have never found this without the thermal imaging camera.  The water is the yellow-white area, since the water has been heated by the sun on this area.

2. Leaking Sinks:  Another common source of plumbing leaks is under sinks.  These leaks sometimes stay hidden until I come along and really put the plumbing to the test.  To properly test your sink, put the stopper in and fill it up...almost to the top.  If it has an overflow drain, let a good amount of water run into it, since these are often either plugged or leak.  Once the sink is full, pull the plug and watch under the sink with a flashlight.  If you see any water dripping down, it's time to either tighten things up a bit, or it may be time to replace the drain piping.  If you decide to fix this on your own, make sure you use the right materials, and check for leaks afterwards, and after using it a few times.

3. Caulk/Grout in tubs and showers:  Even though the tubes of caulk say they are good for 20-30 years, it must be tested under absolutely ideal conditions.  I have received several complaints from the seller's side about being nit-picky on caulk and grout, but these two things are your first-line defense against water intrusion into the walls behind your shower.

This is the inside of a shower wall after the tile was removed.  The grout and caulk had failed after only 2 months of use and the black stuff was confirmed to be stachybotrys (toxic black mold).

 The good news is, removing old caulk and replacing it is quite easy, and cheap.  Grout takes a little more skill, but it's still not hard, or expensive.  As a side note, grout does not do well in corners, but most grout makers have matching caulk that can be used in the corners of your shower.

4. Downspout extensions:  I cannot stress enough how important it is to get the water away from your foundation, even if you don't have a basement.  And by away, I mean 6-8 feet away.  This means that those plastic splash blocks you can put at the bottom of the downspout aren't enough.  Get the extendable hoses and stretch them out (under $10 each).  Also make sure that the ground around your home slopes away from the foundation, at least 6 inches over the first 10 feet.  If you have underground drains for your downspouts, make sure they work.  During a steady rain (not a thunderstorm), go outside and make sure they aren't backing up where the downspout connects.  If it is, it's time to have them cleaned out, because this is just dumping a lot of water right next to your foundation.

This is how you should manage the water coming down your downspout.  If you have the plastic splash blocks, you can put them at the end of the hose if you want.

For underground downspout extensions, check them during a steady rain (but not during a thunderstorm) to make sure they are draining properly and not backing up next to the house.

5. Smoke/Carbon Monoxide Alarms:  Please, Please make sure these are working!  They save lives!  If you haven't already upgraded to the units with the 10-year battery, make sure you change the batteries in all of your alarms every 6 months.  If you have gas/oil appliances (furnace, water heater, stove, etc), a fireplace, or an attached garage, you should have Carbon Monoxide (CO) detectors as well.  One on each level with a  potential CO source, as well as one in the hallway outside the bedrooms.  I can't emphasize this one enough, not just to help the inspection, but to save your life in an emergency.

6. GFCI Outlets:  Check to make sure they work.  You should do this every month anyways, but this is another frequent problem I find.  To test, simply push the test button, which should cause the reset button to pop out (and the power to go off).  Then push the reset button to restore the power.  As long as the test works and the receptacle resets, it should be working properly.  If the test doesn't work, or if the receptacle doesn't reset, it's time to have an electrician replace it.

7. Attics:  When was the last time you were in your attic.  Take a look up there to see how the insulation is doing.  Are there areas where insulation is missing?  Pay attention to areas around electrical boxes (which should have a cover on them) and bathroom vent fans.  If insulation is missing, or displaced, it will stand out like a sore thumb on the thermal imaging camera.  It only costs a little time to redistribute displaced blown in insulation, but you should wear protective gear like disposable coveralls, goggles and a dust mask.  Beware if your house was build before the early 1990s as the insulation may be vermiculite.

Missing insulation shows up very well on thermal imaging.  This area was found to have no insulation at all. 

While you're in the attic, take a moment to check the bathroom vent fans.  They should be connected to a vent tube that exits the attic.  These fans are designed to remove warm, moist air and when that air is blown into the attic, it can cause wood rot and mold.

This bathroom vent fan didn't exit the attic, and was blowing directly on the roof sheathing.  The black and white substance was found to be mold.

8. Dryer Vent Hoses:  Another common issue I find is with the dryer vent hose.  The proper type of hose is the semi-rigid hose (like the one in the picture above).  Frequently I find the flexible foil hoses, and their even more dangerous substitute, the plastic hose!  Both of these were designed for things like bathroom vent fans, not anything with heat.  Remember, lint is very flammable, and the foil and plastic vents are not able to contain flame.  Believe it or not, these vents were allowed up until 2006, when the new standard was finally issued.  Look for a dryer vent hose meeting UL2158A standards.

9. Furnaces:  When is the last time you changed your furnace/AC filter?  If you have to think about it, or it's been more than a month or so, go ahead and replace it.  While you are there, if your furnace is fueled by oil or propane, is there enough in the tank for the inspector to test the unit?  And are the pilot lights lit on all of your appliances?  This is one of the most frequent causes for me to go back out to reinspect something, and most of the time, the seller ends up paying me for the reinspect.

10. Light Bulbs:  This one probably seems like another nit picky issue, but aside from showing the buyer how well the house is lit, and making moving around the basement safer, I need to know that everything works.  I don't have time to go looking for your spare bulbs, or to change bulbs from working fixtures to make sure it's just a bad bulb.  If a light doesn't work, I have to assume that there is more than a bad bulb.

Checking these 10 things will not only help you to get through your home inspection, they will contribute to the health and safety of your home.  So even if you aren't getting ready to sell your home, take a few minutes to check your home.  The time invested now will save you a lot of time and money down the road.

For more information, or to book your full home inspection, visit www.vhillc.com or call 210-202-1974

Is the added cost of a Thermal Imaging Home Inspection worth it?

What does Thermal Imaging bring to a home inspection?   

This is a question I am frequently hearing, and the simplest explanation is that it allows the inspector to see more of the picture.  Most home inspectors are going to open up the electric panel and check for things like incorrect wiring, double tapped breakers, and aluminum wiring.  Some will even take the initiative to run an infrared thermometer over the breakers to see if they are excessively hot. With a thermal imaging camera, we can quickly see what is going on in the panel.  Not only will we see the hot breaker, we can also see wiring that is potentially overheating.

A breaker that is slightly warm, with a wire that is warm only in the first few inches.  This can be a sign that the wire is damaged, and should be evaluated by an electrician.

This overheating breaker is on a Federal Pacific Electric panel.  There is a lot of controversy about these panels, and I see them all the time.  This was the worst I have seen, and I recommended that the buyer have this panel completely replaced prior to moving in.  This is a fire waiting to happen.

One of the frequent electrical issues I've been seeing is hot receptacles.  If an electric outlet has nothing plugged into it, it shouldn't be hotter than the surrounding area (GFCI outlets are an exception).  

This receptacle was so warm that you could actually see where the wires were overheating behind the drywall (top left of the receptacle).

 Another common benefit to using thermal imaging is the ability to see where moisture is accumulating.  Water is normally cooler than the surrounding materials, which makes it stand out on the IR camera.  Water can also be seen before it causes stains or damage that is visible to the naked eye.

This kitchen ceiling looked perfectly normal, but once I looked at it with the thermal imaging camera, I saw a large area that was cooler than the surrounding ceiling.  The moisture meter confirmed that the drywall was 97% saturated with water.  We traced the source of the water to a leaking toilet above the kitchen.  This wouldn't have been found without the camera.

 By far the most common issue I find with the camera is missing or displaced insulation.  The hot spots in the next picture show areas where insulation wasn't installed.  I was able to verify this by looking in the attic.  What makes this even worse is that this was a new construction home.  The builder's rep was there, and when I showed him the camera and said it looks like you forgot some information, he told me I was wrong.  When I showed him pictures from the attic confirming my findings, he stormed off.  Of course this was an easier fix than the missing insulation I found in the walls of a couple other rooms.

Missing insulation in the stairwell to the attic.  The darker lines are caused by the framing.  

Unfortunately, the price of the equipment and training to perform a full inspection with a thermal imaging camera is expensive, and many inspectors can't afford it.  This also means that the price of an inspection with thermal imaging is more expensive.  But when you think about the problems it can uncover that the cheaper inspectors will miss, isn't it worth it.  This really lends credence to our slogan that "Anyone else is just looking around."

For more information, or to book your full home inspection, visit www.vhillc.com or call 210-202-1974.

We look forward to showing you the whole picture.